Iran

Iran, officially the Islamic Republic of Iran and also known as Persia, is a country in West Asia. Iran has an ancient, storied history, being the center of the Persian empire, and has a varied landscape from deserts to mountains. From the stunning architecture of Isfahan and the poetic charm of Shiraz to the desert beauty of Yazd and the bustling energy of Tehran, Iran offers a rich tapestry of experiences. Travelers can explore majestic mosques, ancient ruins like Persepolis, bustling bazaars, and lush Persian gardens—all while enjoying the warmth and hospitality of the Iranian people.

My Trip

• 2025-April 01 to 07 (7 days): I travelled to Iran from Doha with a friend and visited all major attractions in Shiraz, Ishfahan, Kashan, and Tehran.

Visited Places/Attractions

Shiraz:

• Persepolis: Ruins of a 518 BC Achaemenid empire capital & palace complex built in a terrace design; a must-see for history lovers.
• Naqsh-e Rostam: Colossal royal tombs carved into a stone cliff face at this ancient necropolis near Persepolis.
• Nasir al-Mulk (Pink) Mosque: Best visited in the morning when sunlight shines through stained glass, creating a kaleidoscope of colors.
• Tomb of Hafez: A serene memorial garden honoring the great Persian poet, popular with poetry lovers.
• Eram Garden: A UNESCO-listed Persian garden with elegant landscaping and traditional architecture.

Isfahan:

• Naqsh-e Jahan Square: A UNESCO World Heritage Site, home to some of the most beautiful Islamic architecture in Iran.
• Ali Qapu Palace: Historic palace with impressive murals and a music hall with acoustic niches.
• Shah Mosque: Iconic mosque with dazzling blue tiles and grand architecture.
• Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque: Known for its intricate dome and harmonious architecture.
• Mollabashi Historical House: A preserved 19th-century mansion with decorative ceilings and mirrors.
• Chehel Sotoun Palace: A picturesque garden palace featuring mirrored halls and historical frescoes.
• Khaju Bridge to Si-o-se-pol Bridge: Enjoy a scenic walk along the Zayandeh River with historic bridges and local life.

Kashan:

• Abbasi Historical Traditional Restaurant and Tea House: A charming spot for traditional Persian meals in a historic setting.
• Fin Garden: A UNESCO-listed Persian garden famous for its historical significance and tranquil layout.
• Tabatabaei Historical House: A 19th-century mansion showcasing exquisite plasterwork and stained-glass windows.
• Borujerdiha House: A historic residence turned museum known for its windcatchers and stunning interiors.
• Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse: A beautifully restored Persian hammam with domed ceilings and colorful tiles.
• Āmeri House: One of the largest traditional houses in Kashan, now operating as a boutique hotel.
• Agha Bozorg Mosque: A classic example of Qajar-era mosque design, with a large sunken courtyard.

Tehran:

• Milad Tower: One of the tallest towers in the world, offering panoramic views of Tehran.
• Azadi Tower: A modern symbol of Tehran with a blend of pre-Islamic and Islamic architecture.
• Golestan Palace: A UNESCO World Heritage Site with stunning royal halls and mirrored interiors.
• Grand Bazaar: A lively market offering everything from spices to handicrafts, perfect for souvenir shopping.

Day Plans

Day-01: April 01, 2025

We landed in Tehran at night after a short flight from Doha, which took less than two hours. Immigration was smooth— the officer simply scanned our passports without asking any questions or requiring any additional documents. Entry was granted without a passport stamp or any slips.

After arrival, we bought a local SIM card and took an airport taxi to our hotel in the city center, about an hour's drive away. Understanding Iranian currency was challenging. The rial is one of the least valued currencies in the world, with 1 USD equivalent to 1 million rials. However, Iranians commonly refer to amounts in tomans, where 100,000 rials equals 10 tomans. The largest banknote available is 2 million rials (200 tomans), so we ended up carrying a lot of cash.

Due to international sanctions, credit cards don’t work, so carrying cash is essential. Many popular websites, like Booking.com, and mobile apps are also inaccessible. To use them, we had to install a specific VPN.

Day-02: April 02, 2025
Many caution against traveling to Iran, but so far, it has felt completely safe. Due to years of heavy sanctions, Iran still operates some of the world’s oldest aircraft. This morning, we took a domestic flight from Tehran to Shiraz on Iran Airtour Airlines, flying in a McDonnell Douglas MD-82. Despite its age, the aircraft was well-maintained and felt safe. The one-hour flight cost just $24, and they even served a nice breakfast onboard.

Our first stop in Shiraz was the ancient ruins of Persepolis, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that still retains much of its original grandeur. Next, we visited the stunning rock tombs of Naqsh-e Rostam. The midday heat was intense, so we returned to our hotel for a break in the afternoon.

At night, we took a stroll through Shiraz’s historic old quarters, which were bustling with locals celebrating Sizdah Bedar. The Iranian hospitality was incredible—people were warm and friendly, especially toward Indians. Many spoke about Bollywood and even tried their limited Hindi with us.

Day-03: April 03, 2025

Peugeot Persia (now Pars) is a well-known sedan model still produced in Iran, one of the world's major automakers. Today, we hired a taxi for sightseeing in Shiraz, and our driver, Mohammed, arrived in a 34-year-old model of this iconic car.

Our first stop was the Nasir al-Mulk (Pink) Mosque, renowned for its breathtaking tilework and stained glass. We then visited the Tomb of Hafez, dedicated to the celebrated Persian poet, before exploring Eram Garden, a UNESCO World Heritage Site showcasing the beauty of historic Persian garden design.

After lunch, we started a 400-km road trip to Isfahan in the same car. Iran boasts a well-maintained highway network, with multi-lane roads connecting major cities. The landscape featured vast, rocky deserts framed by rugged mountains. Despite the car’s age, Mohammed confidently pushed the Pars past 160 km/h, covering the distance in under five hours.

We spent the evening walking through Isfahan, enjoying the cooler weather and local food.

Dinner: Shahrzad Restaurant, Near Si-o-se-pol Bridge, Isfahan (Traditional mutton and chicken dishes with rice)

Day-04: April 04, 2025

72 years old retired veterinary doctor Mansoor was our today's guide and driver in Isfahan, a beautiful city known for its Persian architecture. We visited all major attractions like Naqsh-e Jahan Square, Imam (Shah) Mosque, Chehel Sotoun Palace, etc.

During our 200-kilometer drive to the next city, Kashan, Mansoor served us hot tea, cracked jokes, and shared fascinating stories from his life. His energy and passion were remarkable. He painted vivid pictures of the past when Iran was a close ally of the USA and thousands of Americans visited Iran each year—a time that's now hard to even imagine.

Recent tensions in the Middle East has affected international tourism here significantly. At most places we visited, we were the only foreigners.

We also enjoyed a variety of Persian dishes today—fresh bread, herb-infused rice, kebabs, chicken and mutton stews with beans and aromatic spices which were all very delicious.

Lunch: Mahoor Hotel and Restaurant, Behind Naqsh-e Jahan Square, Isfahan (Chicken and meat kebabs with rice)

Dinner: Mandegar House, Alavi St, Kashan - Gosht Lobia (Mutton and Black Eyed Peas) and Murgh Mash'hadi (Chicken and spices)

Day-05: April 05, 2025

We spent a night and a day in Kashan, a charming oasis city en route to Tehran, renowned for its historic houses built by wealthy merchants in the 18th century. These grand homes featured spectacular, symmetrical designs and intricate architecture. We also explored a unique Persian garden, a beautifully restored traditional hammam, and a serene mosque with a spacious courtyard. In the afternoon, we returned to Tehran by an air-conditioned coach with reclining seats—an incredibly comfortable 200 km journey that cost just $2.

Day-06: April 06, 2025

Our last day in Iran was spent sightseeing in Tehran and shopping for souvenirs. We visited the UNESCO-listed Golestan Palace—a stunning royal complex and museum—and admired the city’s iconic landmarks: Milad Tower and Azadi Tower.

For shopping, we headed to the bustling Tehran Grand Bazaar, where we picked up some beautiful handcrafted souvenirs: Minakari (enamel work) vases and Khatamkari (marquetry) boxes and a chessboard, both traditional Iranian crafts. We also bought some Gaz—a popular nougat-like sweet from Isfahan, filled with pistachios and almonds.

Iran turned out to be a truly pleasant surprise, defying long-held biases shaped by the media. We were met with honesty, warmth, and hospitality everywhere we went. People went out of their way to help, and the youth—men and women alike—were vibrant, friendly, and eager to share stories and offer tips. The cities were clean, the infrastructure impressive, and there were no scams or tourist traps to speak of. Best of all, it was incredibly affordable—our total cost per person, including purchases, was under $600.

Day-07: April 07, 2025
Returned to Doha by a morning flight from Tehran.

Hostels

• Shiraz: Taha Tradicional Hotel, N. 43. Front of Armanian Church , Sang Siah, Shiraz, Shiraz, Iran
• Isfahan: Isfahan Heritage Hostel, No 9, Neshat St, Naqsh-e Jahan Sq, 24th (Seyedoltofin) Alley, Isfahan, Iran
• Kashan: Sana Historical Hostel, Mokhber Alley - Aqa Bozorg street - Fazel Naraqi s, Kashan, Iran
• Tehran: Tehran Heritage Hostel, No 22, Kamal-ol-Molk Street, Safi Alishah Street, Baharestan Square, Tehran, Iran

(Booked through https://www.hostelworld.com/)

Contacts

• Tehran - Souvenir shopping: Shop: Nesfe Jahan, No:358, Timcheh Hajeb Ol-Dowleh, Kaffashha bazaar, Sabze Meydan Square, 15th Khordad Street, Tehran Grand Bazar, Tehran, Iran. Mobile:+989131043828, +989137024001
• Ishfahan - English speaking guide and driver Mansoor: +98 913 111 8505

Visa

Visa is not required for Indians for up to 15 days. No stamping on passort and no forms to fill and no slips to keep.

Tips

• Buy local sim card from airport itself and activate it immediately. Local number makes it easy for guides and taxi people to contact.
• Carry cash in US Dollars or Euros as outside credit/debit cards will not work in Iran.
• Keep some lower value notes for taxis and small purchases
• Exchange to Iranian Rials on a need basis from city streets or hostel reception or exchange offices